Day 13 – Mt. Fuji

We pulled into Shimizu harbor and were greeted with the rare sight of Mt. Fuji in the distance. Typically the summit is visible only 10 percent of the time so once again we were very lucky.

A bus tour took us to the Hakone National Geo Park with stunning views of Mt. Fuji via ropeway (as the Japanese call it.). The volcanic park is an active geothermal center providing energy to the nearby area.

These signs gave everyone pause for riding the cable cars but they were a bit overkill.

Once off the mountain we took a boat tour on Lake Ashi. When we docked we could view Mt Fuji in the distance.

We returned to our ship to a beautiful send off by the locals. Another great day in Japan.

Day 12 – Kyoto, Japan

Our string of beautiful Fall weather continued today as we made our way from Kobe to Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan, via Bullet Train. The Japanese are rightfully very proud of these technological marvels as well they should be.

Our guide Naomi took great care in explaining that we only had two to three minutes to get onboard the train and find out reserved seats. Based on the signs we probably could have figured things out but it was nice to have a guide the first time.

We’ll upload some video as it’s quite impressive. The trip to Kyoto, a distance of 41 miles takes 28 minutes via the Bullet Train at a top speed of close to 150 mph. A good part of that time is the mid point stop over in Osaka. And there is an even faster express train!

Upon arriving in Kyoto a bus took us to our first stop, Kiyomizu-dera Temple. There are over 1,600 Buddhist temples scattered across Kyoto. This one is famed for its platforms with views of the city and springs. The the temple site dates back to the 7th century AD and the current buildings were constructed in the 1600s. Not a single nail was used in the construction. Unfortunately the main temple was under large tarped scaffolding as it is being restored in preparation for the Summer Olympics being held in Japan in 2020.

There was a large shopping area leading up to the temple filled with a variety of shops some of which have some very nice porcelain and other items.

From there it was on to the beautiful Westin hotel for lunch. The hotel was perched on a hillside with wonderful views of the city.

Our final stop in Kyoto was the literal jewel of the city – The Golden Temple. The original temple on the site dated back to the 13th century AD was destroyed by arson in 1950. The main golden building was constructed in 1955 and is covered in over 8 million dollars of gold leaf. There are large crowds to see such a site but we managed a few good shots.

This gigantic oak near the entrance of the site is over 500 years old.

The 600+ year old bonsai above originally started in a pot but had to be transferred to the ground when it became too large.

Tim rang the rope below for good luck and hopefully better health. We are now sailing to the sacred Mt. Fuji.

Day 11 – Kobe, Japan

Another beautiful day, this time in Kobe, Japan. Today we had no tours planned so we decided to strike out on our own, catching the shuttle from the pier to downtown Kobe. From there we boarded the off/on Loop Bus which took us all round the city.

Our first stop was the Kobe Port Tower, the symbol of Kobe. An elevator ride to the top afforded us with great views of the harbor and city.

From there we hopped back on the Loop Bus to the stop for the Herb Garden and Kobe Ropeway cable cars.

Another great view of the city and gardens below.

At the top was a lovely square and rose gardens modeled after Germany. We grabbed a curry hotdog and juice and then started our decent on foot halfway down the mountain.

Just time for quick bite – hot dog with curry. Not something we would have come up with but surprisingly good.

On the way up we spotted these folks enjoying a peaceful rest in the gardens.

…so on the way down Tim had to give it a try.

Fortunately there was time for a lavender ice cream before reloading the ropeway cars to continue our trip back down the mountain.

Rhonda grabbed a photo of the legendary Japanese heated toilets and control centers which include various washes, drying and music for “privacy”.

Traveling on the city bus was quite an experience. Very crowded and we had absolutely no idea what was being said. But we never felt unsafe. The universal smile, a slight bow and “thank you” go a long way. Finally, back to the ship for a nice sunset and dinner on board. The Millennium has been a great floating hotel for us. We’ve enjoyed the Martini Bar a bit more than we should but it’s been a great gathering place at the end of a day’s adventures.

Day 9 – Jeju Island, South Korea

Today we docked at Jeju, a small volcanic island off the southern coast of Korea. Our legs were still feeling the burn of climbing the Great Wall but we powered through. There has been no volcanic activity on the island for thousands of years so the basalt is well weathered and the volcanic cone at the center of the island worn down with erosion. The island is now largely a tourist destination for Koreans and increasingly international tourists. The climate is similar to South Carolina although the island is covered with palms and tangerine trees.

Our delightful tour guide So Hey took us to our first stop for the day, the beautiful Yeomiji Botanical Gardens. The gardens consist of a central tower and greenhouse divided into sections and then exterior gardens based on international themes such as Japanese, French and Italian.

From the tower there are excellent views of the surrounding landscape including the Hallasan volcano, at 6,400 feet the highest peak in South Korea. As you can see in the photos we had a brilliant sunny day and we found out later that Jeju has less than 50 days like this a year and even when it is sunny, the volcano peak is usually cloud covered, so we were very fortunate.

The indoor hardens were reminiscent of Longwood Gardens in Delaware for our Philly friends with an Asian flair.

From the gardens we proceeded across a beautiful foot bridge to the Cheonjeyeon waterfalls.

From there it was off to a traditional Korean lunch of barbecue beef with assorted sides. We passed on the anchovies and smoked fish.

Our afternoon took us to the Yakcheonsa Buddhist Temple. While Buddhists worshiped in this area for many centuries due to the healing mineral spring on the site, the temple itself was built in the 1980s and is quite stunning.

Inside of these large columns are thousands of prayer tubes, each accompanied by tiny elaborate Buddha figurines

There was an elaborate sand painting which is made and destroyed on a regular basis by the temple monks as a form of meditation.

Jeju is famous for its “Diving Women” who for many centuries free dove the area waters at depths up to 90 feet holding their breath for 2 minutes or more (try it) in search of abalone and other seafood. Many of them are now in their 60s and even older and the younger generation is not taking it up so the tradition may soon come to an end. Below is a statue at the site to honor these divers…NOTE: They do wear wetsuits now!

Rhonda found this sign at the local restroom. A cute way to honor the divers. The Asians do love their cartoon figures. They are everywhere.

When we returned to the ship, the passengers were prided a chance to try on traditional Korean garb. Our tour guide told us that throughout Asia, Koreans were known for three things – drinking, laughter and singing. Again, I haven’t heard my Korean born son-in-law Geoff sing but he is skilled in the other areas! We are so grateful for the opportunity to visit his homeland and share this glimpse of the culture.


Jeju was another lovely stop on our journey. Today, our last sea day and then on to Kobe tomorrow.

Day 8 Beijing, China

After our flight from Xi’an to Beijing we spent the night at the beautiful Regent Hotel in Beijing.

From there it was a 1 hour trip to the Great Wall.

The section closest to Beijing is the newest section, built approximately 600 years ago. When you first see it you are left with the question why isn’t it called “The Great Steps” as the wall seems relatively incidental.

The sign below (especially the “brain disease) seemed quite appropriate as you gaze up at the thousands of uneven steps ahead.

Rhonda climbed 10 flights then claimed “brain disease” when she looked down while Tim climbed up the 25 flights to the 1st tower in sight. While the original wall was thousands of miles long, much of it has crumbled over the centuries. Now there are several sections which stretch for several kilometers which are maintained as tourist attractions.

Here’s Tim atop the first tower being photobombed by an Armenian.

Then it was on to lunch at one of the best Peking Duck restaurants in the city, according to our guide.

Everything at all of our meals was served family style so you had to grab food from a lazy susan and get ready for the next item coming around.

They made a great show of carving the duck tableside.

A final note. While the men had access to traditional urinals, except in the western hotels, all of the other toilets looked like this…

Good for the thigh muscles but most of the ladies said it took a bit of practice. Tim found this aid hanging in the men’s room if your thighs weren’t up to the challenge…

All in all, a wonderful trip with our guide Martin who got everyone back safe and sound and provided great insights into Chinese culture, past and present.

Day 6 & 7 – Xi’an, China

Today (Saturday, 11/3/18) we are on the South China Sea back from our 3 day excursion to Xi’an and Beijing, China. We saw A LOT so we’re breaking this into two posts. Our ship docked in Taijin, China and from there met our guide. “Martin” who took us on it a 3 hour bus ride to the Beijing Airport for a 2 hour flight to Xi’an (pronounced “She An”) where the legendary Terra-cotta Soldiers are located (more on them later.)

Immediately upon arrival, Martin took our group to see the City Wall. Xi’an was the capital of China for many centuries beginning in the 11th century BC. Like many feudal cities in China the city was completely walled, surrounded by a moat with only 4 gates – North, South, East and West. Today, the wall around Xi’an is the only one remaining intact in China and it stretches for 8.5 miles around the central city dating back to 1568.

At each gate was an Arrow Tower where archers were positioned to shoot from the window at the enemy.

From the wall we were driven to a large dinner theater where the Tang Dynasty Show was presented with a multi course dinner. This was an amazing pageant with a combination of Classical Chinese music, dance and costumes and a state-of-the-art high-definitely full stage video. We were exhausted at this point but the show was terrific with a full orchestra.

After a 16+ hour day of travel and touring we collapsed into bed. Our guide Martin persuaded the group that it would be best to get to the Terra Cotta soldiers EARLY so we were on the bus by 7:15 for the 1 hour ride to the location.

The Terra Cotta soldiers were buried for the after life of Emperor Qin. Construction started in 246 BC and finished when the Emperor died 37 years later. This army of over 8000 soldiers, archers, horses and chariots created to protect the Emperor’s tomb which is about a mile away. The tomb itself has never been excavated as it is protected by underground water and literal rivers of poisonous liquid mercury. They estimate it will be at least another 50 to 100 years before technology can be developed to excavate and enter the tomb safely.

The entire site was lost to antiquity only to be discovered by a farmer digging a well in 1974. If the location of his digging moved 1 meter, the location would never have been uncovered. The sign in the middle of the photo below shows the edge of the pit where the original well was dug…

When uncovered the terra-cotta soldiers were in pieces and painstakingly reassembled by archeologists.

The work has been ongoing for 45 years and it is estimated it will take at least another 50 years to complete.

From there we went to the Wild Goose Pagoda – a Buddhist temple over 1300 years old where we patted the laughing Buddha for luck!

Then it was the most beautifully presented box dinner on the bus for our return flight to Beijing.

Day 5 Incheon and Seoul Korea

Day 4 was a relaxing sea day for us which ended with a beautiful dinner in the Tuscan Grill speciality restaurant (thanks to our Travel Agent Nancy!) The winds were a bit rough on Sunday night and thus our docking was delayed a little over an hour on Monday. It worked out for the best however as we got to see a spectacular sunrise and transit under the Incheon Bridge, the longest in Korea and 7th longest in the world.

After breakfast it was off to Seoul City. Korea has a history thousands of years old with many conquests. The city itself is incredibly densely settled. There is hardly a square foot that is not occupied by some structure.

Our route took us past The Blue House, equivalent to The White House and home to the South Korean President.

From there it was on to Bukchon Hanok village. An ancient area of the city where locals like to stroll in traditional garb. The area is still occupied as it has been continuously. The streets are incredibly narrow, steep and winding with thousands of tourists scrambling up and down – dodging the occasional delivery vehicle or scooter.

To our Philadelphia friends, think Elfreth’s Alley built on steep hills with cars and ten times the tourists and you’ll have a pretty good idea.

From there it was on to lunch at typical Korean eatery. A hole in the wall down an alleyway.

We had to remove our shoes as it the custom in all Korean homes.

Then we sat and were brought all sorts of Korean delights – Kimchi (cabbage and squid), Acorn Jelly, fish heads, soups, salads). Some were delicious and some we passed on.

From there we explored the Insadong shopping area (neither of us are much into shopping).

Next it was on to the National Museum of Korea which was a gigantic edifice almost impossible to photograph. Quite stunning.

The Museum is filled with ancient artifacts, beautiful artwork, pottery and a massive collection of Buddha sculptures, castings and paintings. Way too much to take in in the 90 minutes we had to race through.

Below is our guide, Kim, who proudly shepherded us around the city without losing one of his flock, not something we would have bet on at the start.

Today is a sea day and tomorrow a travel day to Beijing and a flight to Xian so not sure what kind of connectivity we’ll have.

Day 2.5 Bonus Evening on the Huangpu River, Shanghai

This evening we met with a new guide, Pamela, who spirited us across the river for an evening cruise to view the amazing skyline of Shanghai. One aspect which can’t be captured in still photos are that many of the buildings have animated lighting, some with live video more than 40 stories high. The skyline is dominated by the “Oriental Pearl TV Tower” (apparently no one has informed the people here we no longer use “oriental”) and the Shanghai Tower (with the search lights) at 128 stories the 2nd tallest building in the world.

Here we are with our guide Pamela who took great care of us and provided more insights into Shanghai, China and it’s people.

The area below is The Bund dating back to the 1920 when it was the financial center of Shanghai. There are still many banks and insurance companies located there but it is now known for its nightlife including jazz at the Peace Hotel, the green topped building.

To cap off the evening, Pamela took us to a new restaurant at the bottom of the Shanghai Tower where we experienced a fantastic dinner of dim sum.

Off to bed and onto our cruise ship in the morning. It is 12 hours AHEAD here.

Day 2 Old Shanghai Walking Tour

We had a lovely breakfast at the beautiful JW Marriott overlooking Tomorrow Square. Below is a view from our hotel and a view of the hotel from Tomorrow Square.

Today’s weather is a bit warm for this time of year in Shanghai (upper 70’s) and therefore more hazy than usual. Shanghai is about even with the Carolinas’ latitude wise. Our guide today says it almost never snows due to the proximity to the ocean but they did have a rare one day snowfall last year. We took a morning walk in the People’s Park across from our hotel where we saw many locals doing their morning exercises including this group near the Haagen-Dazs…

Shanghai is an amazing modern city, most of which has been built in the last 30 years. Today we booked a walking tour of Old Shanghai and wound up having a private tour from a delightful young woman Feifei. She took us to the old city which dates back several hundred years.

Much of the old city was demolished to make way for the new Shanghai. Even in the remaining areas, much of what remains was taken over by the government during Mao’s “Cultural Revolution” and most original families were displaced. In older times housing consisted of family compounds where multi-generational families lived together. This is still the case today in the old city but the density is even greater and it is not uncommon for one family to occupy less than a 30′ X 30′ space. Some only 10′ X 10′. Even today many of the apartments/rooms in the old city do not have indoor plumbing. They share common sinks located outside, use neighborhood bath houses and carry their “toilets” to neighborhood disposal areas. Feifei did not have an indoor toilet until she was eight (she was born in 1983 – 8 years after Mao’s death and the end of the cultural revolution.)

Here is a typical street view inside the Old Shanghai…

We were given a tour of an old family compound that is unrestored and pretty much as it was after the Cultural Revolution. During that time the government took over these areas from the families and turned them in mini industrial sites (metal fabrication, machine shops, etc.) Most of the wealthier families fled to Hong Kong or other parts of Asia. Many of the family who lived here went to Canada but the daughter who remained stayed to care for her Father. She was allowed to remain on the compound as she worked in the metal shop.

We took many pictures here of the intricate carvings and when we return I’ll update the blog with photo albums of each site. But here’s one with our guide Feifei…

The streets were a constant bustle of activity lined with vendors of all types and activity. Any space larger than a broom closet had a sewing machine with a tailor. Dogs, cats, pet turtles were everywhere and even a pet squirrel!

Amazingly as busy as it is, Shanghai is probably the quietest city we’ve ever experienced. Walking on streets is reminiscent of the old Frogger video game. All motorized scooters, which are omnipresent, are ELECTRIC and there is a fine for honking a horn. Requires a special kind of “spider-sense” to avoid getting run over but somehow it works.

We took a quick walk through a local indoor market…

Then Feifei stopped at one of the hundreds of food stalls along the way and told us we must try the Zongzi as she made the best in the city – yum!

We finished our tour at the Confucian Temple of Shanghai. It was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution, but has been largely restored. Although not a God, Confucius was hailed for promoting education and family respect and was thus revered across China with many temples being built in his honor.

All in all a great cultural experience and a wonderful way to start our Far East journey. Tonight, a river tour on the Huangpu to see the city skyline at night.

Day 1 – Shanghai JW Marriott

We made it! This is a post of maps mostly. Hopefully I’ll post some photos tonight or tomorrow morning. The flight was an hour delayed taking off and was flying into a headwind so it took almost 15 hours flying.

We arrived in Shanghai around 8:00 PM and it took about a half hour to clear customs . Rhonda has no fingerprints left from her work as a safe cracker but that’s another story. Our driver was delayed 30 minutes with a flat tire! But all went well after that and we got to the hotel by 10 as it’s an hour drive from the airport to downtown. It was an impressive nightscape as we arrived into Shanghai proper. Shanghai is the largest city in China with 30 million+ people and the 3rd largest in the world after Tokyo and Delhi.

We are headed out for some touring this morning and evening so looking forward to our first full day in China!